Art Nouveau: 1890-1915
The period that crossed over the reigns of Victoria and her son Edward VII, marked the begining of the era of Art Nouveau (1890). In keeping with the Arts and Crafts movement in interior design, Art Nouveau jewelry was based on craftsmanship and design outweighed the material.
The motives of Art Nouveau jewellery were curves sinuous organic lines of romantic and imaginary dreaminess, with long limbed ethereal beauties sometimes turning into winged bird and flower forms.
Jewelry made at the turn of the century in art nouveau translates literally as “new art”, the period was influenced by older styles jewellery . It was characterized by a return to craftsmanship and an emphasis on design over material value. he motifs are a nymph with flowers in her long hair, peacocks, dragonflies, snakes, butterflies, moths, orchids, waterlilies. Enameling techniques were widely used. New materials appeared in jewelry design: ivory, copper, tortoise shell. The styles derive from Gothic and rococo with Asian influences. Celtic manuscripts, Persian pottery and ancient Roman glass provide other sources of inspiration.
Semi-precious stones such as moonstone, opal, citrine, peridot and freshwater pearls were popular. The Frenchman René Lalique was the master goldsmith of the era of Art Nouveau producing exquisite one off pieces. As an art movement today, the style is still admired and still copied. The movement began in Paris and its influence went throughout the Western world. Non-traditional materials also emerged with horn, bone, copper, shell and carved glass among the most prevalent
Some Art Nouveau pieces fell into the antique jewellery category.
During This Era
- Designs reflected inner feelings.
- The motifs are intertwined hands, serpents, flowers, trees, birds, fans, dragons. These latter two are Japanese. Inscriptions were often engraved on the inside of the rings.
- The techniques are filigree, piercing, cannetille, repoussé.
- Styles: Etruscan, Egyptian, Classical and Renaissance styles are revived. There are Japanese and Indian influences
Magnificent floral and botanical forms often worked in enamel were inexpensive and became so popular once mass-produced, that the Art Nouveau style declined.
